Cornice Moulding Installation Instructions

We recommend that all first time installers, sub-contractors and do-it-yourselfers read the following instructions for the best installation results.

All moulding installation should be meticulously dapped where the crown meets the ceiling and walls. Other areas that would require dapping would be all inside and outside corners as well as butt joints (where two pieces are joined together). All brad nails are 2" (18 gauge) installed in pairs at 45 degrees approximately 16" apart to ensure fastening into the studs. The nail heads are counter sunk into the moulding and are then sealed and can't be seen. A light sanding is then applied, and the moulding is now ready for it's final coat of paint.

To minimize on shrinkage, thus causing cracks, all installers should use a specially formulated MDF glue authorized by Elite Mouldings. (Glue should be kept at room temperature at all times). All cutting of mouldings should be done in the garage if area permits, otherwise cutting on the driveway is recommended. Absolutely no cutting in an occupied home because of the dust created. An exception is given to those working in a new construction home.

Technical

MDF may be manually hand nailed, or fastened with pressurized air pneumatic finish nailer. If your installation method of choice is manually hand nailing, pre-drilling is suggested, but not necessary. If your choice is a pneumatic nailer, the recommended air pressure should be 98 to 110 PSI. Installers who have not worked with MDF before should test and adjust the air pressure as needed for their specific equipment. The best fasteners are 15 to 18 gauge brad and pin nails. The type of finish nailer used, is up to the installer. It will vary based upon personal preference.

Carbide tip blades are recommended. They deliver the finest and cleanest cuts and have longer tool life before needing to be sharpened or replaced.

If nailing creates a "blow out" or a "puckering" effect with proper pressure and nail selection, rotate the fastener to a 90 degree angle, or perpendicular with the moulding and apply the nail. Staples and "T" nails may cause a puckering effect and are not recommended.
 

ANGLE FINDER TOOL Before we can cut, we must determine the correct angle.  Assume nothing, not all corners are at 90 degree angles.  Keep in mind that if the corners do not fit tightly, the glue will not hold very well      Click on above link and either save file to desk top or print directly from your browser.

Simply fold over to find  the correct angle. Cutting Tips

Compound Miter Settings 45 Degrees 52 Degrees Movie showing brad nailer at work

>A miter joint is recommended for inside and outside moulding corners, as well as chair rails, baseboards, window and door casings. A miter cut is made straight across the grain of the wood at any angle other than 90? The most common miter cut is at 45?where two pieces join together to form a 90? angle. These cuts should typically be made with a compound miter saw. The use of these types of chop saws will give you the best and most accurate results. The reason for this is that this types of saw will allow you to do a miter cut, as well as a bevel cut, all in one stroke action. Keep in mind that all crown moulding is not at a 45?angle when installing, it is therefore recommended that the degree of moulding, as well as the degree of your wall angle be determined. Once this is completed look up these angles in the chart provided, the chart will give you the angle settings for your chop saw.

These saws will also make your life easier because it allows you to choose your angles precisely on a miter and/or bevel cut. A compound miter joint is required for outside cornice corners. A compound miter is a cut that angles in two different directions at the same time. Coping is recommended when mouldings are installed to an inside corner because cope cuts are more flexible and will help prevent joint separation as the building or structure settles. Coping involves cutting one piece of moulding flat on one end to fit flush against the wall. The adjoining piece of moulding is "coped", cut out to fit the profile of the original piece joining at a right angle. Due to the precision and tools required to cope moulding, we recommend that this type of installation only be done by a professional or highly skilled do-it-yourselfer.

The best method to bring miters together starts with an accurate, clean cut. Add a bead of MDF glue (REGULAR CARPENTER'S GLUE WILL NOT WORK) and apply one brad nail through the top of the joint down. This will pull and keep the miter together. A common mishap when edge nailing is splitting in a plane parallel to the surface. Using the finer gauge brad or pin will alleviate this problem.

When installing long lengths of crown, do not cut the moulding too tight. Leave a small gap about the size of a credit card at the square end. The coped end will then cover this and a small amount of caulking (ALEX PLUS DAP or SPACKLING DAP) will complete the corner. When a splice is required, use a 30 degree angle. Glue and pin nail the splice to prevent any separation.

Like all wood products, MDF absorbs and desorbs moisture with changes in relative humidity. The normal range of interior humidity is 40% to 80%. The industry standard for maximum expansion and contraction of MDF due to changes in relative humidity from 40% to 85% is .3%. Thus, some expansion and contraction of MDF mouldings should be expected.

All areas must be free of debris and door openings must be plumb and square.

Suggested tools needed:

Our Installation Procedures

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